our first view of the village
After the 5 hr boat ride down the stunning Nam Ou, we arrived at the sleepy village of Mung Ngoi Neua. We had been trying to decide if we were going to visit there or not, while we were planning our route through Loas, since it's a little out of the way. When we arrived, we new instantly that we were so glad we went. this was the view from the porch of our hut
The village of no more than about 500 people, is tucked up against the Nam Ou (Nam is river), and lies in the basin of several jagged karsts. It's an amazing spot. It's only accessable by foot, or by boat, so it's really peaceful since there's no motorbikes or cars. We rented a simple little hut overlooking the river. We actually ended up spending three nights there.
There wasn't too much happening in this quiet village. That's if you don't count soaking in all the things that make this place such a jem. Kids were playing everywhere the way the only kids can. Whether it was kicking around a beat-up "soccerball", or stripping down to nothing to play and jump into the icy river, they were having a blast. Villagers were true villagers here as well. What I mean is they were working hard. On our travels that's one thing that usually rings true. Women were seen carrying huge loads on there backs, feeding the animals, tending the children, slaving over a coal fire, and working in the fields. Men were repairing their homes, hunting for birds, herding the buffalos, or fishing by night. Other than soaking in these sights, we also enjoyed reading in our hammocks by day, and listening the cicadas and crickets, or watching the bobbing torches of small fishing boats by night. With most of the noise in town coming from yelling children and eratic roosters, it was very peaceful.
We did however manage to venture out of the village into the fields and forest to seek out a cave we'd heard about. After walking on a footpath for several kms we came across a small stream with some men spear fishing. The stream they were fishing in actually flowed out of the cave we were going to check out. It was really huge....once again taking the place of the biggest cave we've ever been in. We snaked our way deeper and deeper into it, trying to follow the sound of the babbling stream somewhere below. After going in somewhere between 300 and 400 m, we turned out our single headlamp to see how dark it would be. Complete darkness! We quickly realized that since we had only one light, if it were to quit, we would have serious trouble navigating our way out of the cave. Also, since no one knew we were in there, we thought we'd better get out. Even in spite of the "danger" at hand, it was great!
not a great shot...but you can see how big this thing was
We continued walking the foot path for another 3 sweaty kms. We arrived at another little village, which was only accessable by foot. There wasn't much to do there, accept for wave at the currious kids and watch ladies sifting rice. We turned back and stopped on the way to eat the bread and bananas we'd brought with us. While eating, a dozen men with guns that looked like Sir Brock may have used once, came wadeing through the stream we were sitting by. They were out hunting birds we presumed.
It's great to be in a new country, and try to learn the ways of it. I think were really going to love it here...we already do! (you were right Rach.) With out any smoggy big cities, and a population of only about 7 million (small for asia), Loas has a pace that makes the other 3 countries we've been in look like they're in fastforward. We'll explain more later.
The food here has been really great also. It closely resembles Thai cuisene, but is distinct as well. In the two small towns on the river, we've seen a really interesting dish. Riverweed. Basically people collect weeds from the floor of the river and then beat them into a flat sheet, and then dry them in the sum. The often add thin slices of tomotes and garlic too. We've yet to try it...but we plan to.
We had a great time there before taking another boat farther down the Nam Ou.
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