Waterworld

sunrise at the dock

Today was fantastic! We took a boat from Siem Reap to Battambang, and it proved to be one of the best journey's we've ever done!

Since the roads in Cambodia are horrible, bus travel often takes a back seat to water travel if the artteries can support it. So we crossed the vast flat waterworld of Tonle Sap by boat to get to Battambang. (say bat em bong) We were told this journey was very scenic, since it passed through perhaps one of the most biologicaly diverse fresh-water deltas on the planet. The area is teaming with birds and fish. So naturally it would be pretty neat, but we had no idea that were floating into an incredible scene of human existence. preparing to squeeze past another boat

The entire area of Tonle Sap is very, very flat. The flattest thing you can imagine. Tonle Sap is a fresh water lake that is about 3000 sq. km during the dry season, and during the wet season it grows to a stagering 15000 sq. km. - not including the surrounding streams and rivers that rise by more that 4 metres. We're here somewhere in the middle of wet and dry.

What made the trip so special, were the people who's entire life was lived not just on the banks of this massive delta, but on the water itself. As we left the boat dock we began to crossed the lake and then entered the delta, which seemed more like a maze of channels through a flooded jungle. The first villages we saw had houses that were mainly built on very tall stilts to compensate for the rising of the waters during monsoon season. As we ventured deeper into the waterworld, all forms of solid ground dissapeared. However, the people continued to live, thrive even as it appeared, in an area with no bare earth at all. Small villages lined the edges of the channels, in which all the houses were floating...and life went on as normal. They had shops for food, shops for tools and gas, even schools and temples. It was like nothing weve ever seen.

floating school

bringin' in the pinnapple
notice the outhouse? Erin loved that they even took pride in their homes.

As we went farther still, the villages became something different yet. The floating houses vanished, and mobile homes took their place. I guess you could call them houseboats... but don't picture cruising Georgeon Bay in some flash rig. These were small boats, perhaps 15-20feet long, in which a family lived and their entire life took place. Cooking, washing, and fishing all happened on board. It was really special to see they way these people lived life on the water.

see the floating pig pen? how about the tv poles? what?

Fishing, appeared to be the only source of imcome people completely seperated from land had. Everyone we passed had nets in the water, and sometimes the going was slow as we either navageted around them, or waited for the fisherman, or fisherwomen to raise their nets. The waters were literlly over flowing with fish, and everytime we saw a net being drag aboard, it was full of little silver fish.

a big net on a hoist for raising and lowering...few at this.

Other than simply soaking in all that was happening in this world, there were two things that made it extra cool. One highlight for me was stopping at a little floating restaurant and having an excellent meal. I don't know of many restaurants seperated from dry land by dozens of kms, where you can get a great meal of fish and fried pinnapple over rice for just under $1.

Perhaps what made these monents so moving, were the people themselves. It's really refreshing to see children and adults waving at you with all their might and shouting hello from the bottom of their heart as you passed through their world. Kids wore the biggest smiles you can imagine, and didn't stop waving until you went around the next bend. Not since Africa, have we felt like real guests on or travels. Even in this town, you're a bit of a sight for people as you walk around.

this little guy was learning the ways of the water early in life
everything happens on the boat...even tv?

This truly was a highlight of traveling here in southeast asia, and it certainly ranks very high as one of the best cultural experiences I've ever had.